Wheeler Delta Series AR Upper / Pic Rail Vise Block

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Ratings Snapshot

4.9

out of 5

5 (11)

4 (1)

3 (0)

2 (0)

1 (0)

Would recommend this product.

100%

SKU: 240-W-156888
UPC: 661120568889

It looked like it would be a good multi purpose vise block for working on my AR, and it is just that. Well made, solid mounting to vise and firearm. If you have a custom handguards mounted to your upper receiver you will need to do a little filing to the upper lead edge of the vise to allow the upper to tilt up for maintenance/cleaning. The attached pic shows what I did to get the upper to a 45 degree angle. Very happy with my purchase. I will forward to Wheeler to make them aware.

So I purchased this wheeler vise block after doing my own research on it. Here's the deal, if you mount the receiver up and dont put the vise jaws high enough, yes, it will fit loosely. If you READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and put the jaws up higher its snug as a bug in a rug. You can even see in the picture on here, how high up the vise jaws are. Thats the correct way. This is a great ar upper receiver block in my opinion, it is cheaper than the plastic versions and holds both 10's and 15's and ANYthing else with a picitinny rail! Money well spent!

Makes changing barrels and installing hand guards a breeze. The barrel nut is short work with this tool!!

If you are thinking about working on your upper receivers AR/15 or 308, this is a must-have. It's a nice addition to your tool box. It sure beats going out and spending a couple of hundred bucks each on two Reaction Rods. I like the idea of the Picatinny Rail vice if you have to apply extra Torc to take off a stubborn barrel nut. I have used this on an assortment of upper receivers with no problems. Well made well thought out. The old plastic action blocks are junk compared to this.

Whether using the pins to secure the upper or the pic rail channel, this tool provides good support and sufficient clamping power for general work on AR uppers. The *very notable exception* being for the use of torquing on barrel nuts. DO NOT expect to use this for installing barrels as the tool's design will put too much stress on the pivot pin receivers, possibly/probably causing a failure. Please do not buy this tool with the expectation that you can use it to install/torque barrels. There are much better tools for that purpose - see the Geissle Reaction Rod, Midwest Industries' upper Receiver Action Rod, Real Avid's Lug-Lok Upper Receiver Vise Block, or the like. There are a group of tools such as those mentioned that provides steel on steel contact which will allow even the most Ham-Fisted of us to install barrels without transferring large amounts of aluminum receiver-distorting twist forces to that AR upper you spent too much time and money on. For the love of GOD, People!!! Think of the receivers!! They're just babies!! That is all.

This ar15 vise block performs excellent in every aspect of its design. I really do not understand the negative comments about this item, it holds up to the tightest barrel nuts without fail and allows tightening barrel nuts to the proper torque specs without a single problem. It also provides for flipping the upper receiver and being held by the rail also. More than 75 uppers are built with the one Wheeler Delta Series vise block and many more on the way!!!!!!!!

So I purchased this vise block after doing my research on it. Here's the deal, if you mount the receiver up and dont put the vise jaws high enough, yes, it will fit loosely. If you READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and put the jaws up higher its snug as a bug in a rug. You can even see in the picture on here, how high up the vise jaws are. That's the correct way. This is a great buy, in my opinion, it is cheaper than the plastic versions and holds both 10's and 15's and ANYthing else with a picitinny rail! Money well spent!

I used this upper block to build a few AR10 uppers and a few AR15 uppers. Better than the derlin blocks because it leaves no marks after clamping it in a vise. You MUST tighten your vise down hard to eliminate any free play in the block. I read some reviews where other users said it was loose and seemed cheap. Common sense should tell you to tighten it down, the take down pin lugs aren't meant for twisting when torque is applied to the barrel nut. Great solid block, and I imagine you will only ever need one if you use it like it is designed.

Not only is this one well made but it gave me the most size options. I had difficulty finding this style of block for the original DPMS 308 uppers (LR308) and this one fit like a champ.

It does exactly what it's supposed to. Its universal for Mil and standard, 556/223 and 762/308 uppers. Yes, there is a little wobble. When your doing any torquing or removing stubborn barrel nuts, You turn it sideways in your vise using Soft Jaws. I use a mid-grade gunsmith vise with plastic jaw pads, which works like a champ. If you are scared of the wobble buy some plastic or other washers from the hardware store! I only use higher-end good upper receivers, so im not risking putting my expensive parts in junk...This works like a champ and is not a cheap, lightweight tool that feels like a toy.

Ok, after reading some reviews. I need to comment. If it is loose and flexing, try some soft jaws and clamp vise on the upper portions of fixture. This will clamp on your AR lugs or rail. I mount the fixture on the lower solid metal for light work. When tightening barrel nuts or muzzle devices, clamp closer to AR, squeezing the fixture to the AR. Thin tape for no marring on paint.

I used this to do a complete upper build for a AR 308 and it made the whole process SOOOO much easier. Installed the barrel and nut, handguard mount, gas system and muzzle device all using this vise block. Very handy if you're gong to do any builds or rework on an AR upper, or even holding your upper for cleaning and maintenance. For barrel installs, I would recommend using this to clamp on the top picatinny rail if at all possible. If you must secure on the take-down pin lugs, clamp your vise firmly BETWEEN the two pins, not on the narrow part below the pins. This will distribute the force more evenly along the entire lugs instead of just in the holes. If you clamp on the narrow part below the pins, you will put all the torque on the holes in the lugs and could damage your upper.