Deltac "Slingshot" muzzle brake for Mosin Nagant - Complete threading kit
We believe that threading the barrel of the Mosin Nagant is the most effective method to install a muzzle brake on your Mosin Nagant because their barrel are not always concentric. See the picture above. There are many breaks on the market that just mount with a bracket secured behind the front sight that end up being shot off with an exiting bullet and are potentially dangerous. Threading your barrel with the use of the enclosed threading tool insure your thread are true and are permanent but ensure reliability and accuracy. We also suggest this to be done by a gunsmith.
- Type: Muzzle Brake
- Length: 2.520 inches
- CALIBER: 7.62
- Exit hole .340 inches
- Thread: M15x1 RH threads
- Machined from top quality steel and finished in black oxide.
Round adjustable die in M15X1RH (Right hand threads)
Thread alignment tool:
This is a simple TAT (thread alignment tool) for re-threading 7.62 caliber muzzles to accept the above M15 X 1 RH muzzle device. The extended 3" long stem helps with *Mosin-Nagant barrels which have been counter-bored to renew the muzzle crown. It helps you get the die started level and on-center to prevent costly mistakes. Material: US made 303 Stainless Steel
#5 Die Handle
This a heavy duty #5 die handle is approx. 11.5in long and accepts 1.5in dia (38mm) dies like the M15X1 RH die that we offer on this site. The handle ends are not removable. These are high quality handles made of high tensile steel.
* The Russian arsenal sometimes counter-bore the barrels to prolong their life by cutting out the bad/worn rifling at the muzzle end. If done properly a counter-bore has the potential to improve accuracy. The length of the counter-bore depended on how worn the muzzle end was. You should measure the depth of the counter-bore to make sure that this tool is long enough to reach the caliber bore of the rifle.
- 1 Threaded "Magnum"muzzle break
- 1 M15X1 RH Die
- 1 Thread alignment tool with a 3" long stem
- #5 die handle
- 1 Jam nut
Muzzle Threading Instructions
Screw the TAT about 4-5 threads into the back of the die with the pilot sticking out in front. Insert die and TAT into handle, preferably lettered towards you and aligning at least one of the tightening screws in the handle with the divots in the die OD. Secure the barrel vertically in a padded vise.
Apply a good cutting fluid/oil to the die teeth and start cutting. It will take a little bit of vertical downward pressure to get started. Apply even downward pressure and rotate the die slowly. Repeatedly advance the die about 1/8 turn, then back it off to break up the shaving (chips).
Do not allow the face of the TAT to ever reach the barrel face. This could strip the teeth out, possibly damaging the TAT and ruining the few threads that you have cut on the barrel. Once you’ve cut about 4-5 threads, and before the TAT reaches the barrel face, unscrew the die completely, loosen the 2 tightening screws on the die holder, and remove the TAT.
With the TAT removed, put the die back in the handle and hand tighten the 2 tightening screws. Resume threading as above, breaking the chips and applying cutting fluid as you go.
Thread to the desired depth, blow off the threads and check the fit with whatever muzzle device you plan to use. You want the threads firm but able to screw on by hand.
If your threads are too large, tighten the 2 screws in the handle a little bit, apply more cutting fluid and run over the threads again. Blow off the threads and check the fit again. Repeat as needed.
If necessary, you can take the die out of the handle, unscrew the preset screw in the die itself, and place back in handle, tightening the 2 screws for an even smaller thread.
Hopefully this information will help you successfully complete your barrel threading project. Make sure to wear protective glasses throughout the process and Take Your Time!. This type of work can be very rewarding when all goes smooth, or a disastrous, aggravating, mess if you try to rush. NOTE: This device should be installed by a competent gunsmith to ensure concentricity and clearance at exit hole.
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