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Birchwood Casey Tru Oil Stock Finish, 3 oz. liquid
There is no better oil finish! Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish has been the professional’s choice for gunstock finishing for more than 30 years. Its unique blend of linseed and other natural oils dries fast, resists water damage and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age. Excellent as a sealer for under butt plates, recoil pads and in inletted actions to prevent stock damage.
Key Features of Birchwood Casey Tru Oil
- The first choice of professionals for stock finishing.
- Unique blend of linseed and natural oils dries fast and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age.
- 3 fl oz, Plastic Bottle
FAQ
Q: What is Tru-Oil?
A: Tru-Oil is a unique blend of linseed and natural oils for finishing your rifle stock. I\tdries fast and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age.
Q: How can I increase the shelf life of Tru-Oil?
A: To increase the shelf life of Tru-Oil poke, a small hole in the foil instead of pulling it all the way off and store the bottle upside down after opening.
Q: Can Tru-Oil be thinned out?
A: Tru-Oil can be thinned out using mineral spirits. Please note: Adding mineral spirits will increase drying time.
Q: Will Tru-Oil change the color of the wood?
A: No, Tru-Oil will not change the color, however it does have a golden hue amber tint that will enhance the wood.
Q: Are Tru-Oil and lacquer compatible?
A: No.
Q: Will Tru-Oil work on laminate?
A: Yes.
Q: Before using Tru-Oil should I use a water-based stain or an oil-based stain?
A: We recommend using a water-based stain. If using an oil-based stain, allow extra dry time.
Q: How do I apply Tru-Oil?
A: Apply Tru-Oil using your finger or a lint free cloth.
Q: How long until Tru-Oil is dry to the touch?
A: Tru-Oil will be dry to the touch in approximately 2-4 hours, depending on climate. We recommending allowing 12 + hours between coats of Tru-Oil.
Q: How long is recommended between coats of Tru-Oil?
A: We recommending allowing 12 + hours between coats.
Q: What temperature works best for applying Tru-Oil?
A: Room temperature is ideal for applying Tru-Oil. It will dry faster in low humidity as well.
Q: Can I add linseed to increase dry time?
A: Not recommended.
Q: Will Tru-Oil penetrate oily wood?
A: Tru-Oil has a difficult time penetrating and drying on oily woods (i.e. ebony rosewood and cocobolo). If using an oily wood, you can try using mineral spirits to thin out the Tru-Oil or seal the wood prior to the Tru-Oil application.
Q: How long do I need to wait until rubbing Tru-Oil out with abrasive agent?
A: If using Stock Sheen and Conditioner, wait a minimum of 7 days. If using Rotten stone, wait one month after Tru-Oil application.
NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE IN CALIFORNIA
The distinction between inferior quality and premium Tru Oil undeniable. At MSP, we only offer Gun Refinishing supplies from the most trusted brands like Birchwood Casey. Buy with confidence that we stand behind the product we sell.
Customer Ratings & Reviews
Ratings Snapshot
out of 5
5
(12)
4
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1
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Would recommend this product.
100%
out of 5
5
(12)
4
(0)
3
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2
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1
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Would recommend this product.
100%
A little goes a long way.
Dan
Location:
Date:
August 5, 2019
In my ignorance, I thought tru oil was... Oil and my stock would be oily, In a way it is oil, but this liquid dries just like varnish! Best for a glossy hard finish, particularly on water-based stain! Extremely sticky, so use newspapers and don't touch anything until after. Make sure to use a solvent to clean your fingers when don! Multi coats are easy to apply, and runs are few and easily fixed. Done six coats on a stock, and still, have 3/4 bottle left. First Birchwood product is happy with!
Recommended
Simply one of the best general-purpose wood finishes available.
Carvalho
Location:
Date:
June 24, 2019
I've been using Tru Oil for a couple of decades now, and frankly, there is no other wood finish that performs the way this stuff does. I've finished wood projects with about every brand and type of wood finish available. Tru Oil is not just another oil finish like the big box linseed, Danish, teak, or tung oils. It belongs to a specialized class of oil finishes known as "polymerized tung oils." To create this kind of product is a process the involves heating it in an oxygen-free environment. The result is an oil that dries like a polymer -- virtually an oil-based product that performs like a polyurethane. If you've ever finished with straight tung oil or even boiled linseed oil you know occasionally, you will put on a coat that gets gummy and never dries. This is usually due to environmental factors that are sometimes hard to manage, like the temp and humidity. Polymerized oils are the solution to that problem, but manufacturers typically don't like to make this class of finish because it is not stable once it has been exposed to oxygen. There are just a few products on the market that are actual polymerized tung oil, and this is one of them. Buy it in the small bottles or re-package it to remove all the air from the containers, and it will last a little longer for you. I've heard of guys that fill the jar with marbles as they use it to keep the air out. Similar products are typically only available through very specialized woodworker supply houses, but you can find Tru Oil practically anywhere in outdoor sporting goods departments. Performance? I've finished a cherry gun cleaning box with this that has traveled half the year since 2006. It gets soaked with a myriad of harsh cleaning chemicals, solvents (including brake cleaner!), and every other kind of abuse you can imagine. The box is looking tired, but overall the Tru Oil finish on it has held up beautifully. If it can protect my cleaning box, it will do excellent on your firearm, musical instrument, or exceptional furniture project. Hints on use: apply and rubdown your sealer and filler coats first. Buff them out with 0000 Steel Wool before starting the Tru Oil coats then just oil-dry-buff until you get your desired finish. As little as two layers can make a durable glossy finish, but I like to take it out to 4-6 or even 8 for a deep luster. For guns, I prefer the satin finish from buffing it out after the last coat, but then I'm a softy for that old-world look when I'm building a new rifle stock. I don't want it to look like it just came from some factory paint booth and this is the perfect product for what I want to achieve.
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