Birchwood Casey Super Blue Liquid Gun Blue - 3 fl oz, Plastic Bottle

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Ratings Snapshot

4.6

out of 5

5 (8)

4 (0)

3 (0)

2 (0)

1 (1)

Would recommend this product.

77.8%

SKU: 174-BC-13425
UPC: 029057134254
Manufacturer: Birchwood Casey
MFG#: 13425

I used q-tips to apply rubbing alcohol first, followed by a wipe down with a wet cloth, then I applied super blue with a q-tip to the scratched areas. The deep scratch blued nicely in 3 coats, the thin light scratches took 10+ coats, and there are still a few areas that didn't take the treatment. If I roughed the scratches up with steel wool (the instructions tell you to do this), I'm sure the blue would take better, but I'm not willing to risk it. After drying and buffing, the colors match, and it is difficult to tell there were any scratches - Should keep the barrel from rusting.

I used Birchwood Casey's Super Blue to touch up a few scratches on my Ruger Blackhawk. A wood tooth-pick is all I used to apply the blueing to the scratches. It worked the first time perfectly. Glad I found this stuff!

Super Blue is the best cold bluing I have ever used. Much better than the regular Birchwood Casey Bluing. If you follow the directions, this stuff works with one application. I highly recommend it.

I needed some good bluing product for a 30-year-old Ruger 10/.22 that had seen better days. All of the general bluing solutions were sold out, and I needed it that day as my barrel was unprotected in its true form. I bought it, even knowing there were reviews out there that really had a laundry list of complaints that didn't hinder me as I've prepared and studied the process in detail. I spent one week redeeming the barrel of its scrapes, nicks, and deep scarring with a bâstard file. Next, I stripped the paint that some idiot felt so compelled to apply to such a nice shooting rifle. Then I filed down the light pitting that the paint had covered. The barrel was then wet sanded up to 3000 grit and then finished with a metal polishing compound. It literally looked like a bright chrome, but it couldn't withstand 6 hours unprotected as it flashed overnight. The climate was a cool 50°F; the humidity was about 80% relative and a rainy day in February of 2011. The ambient weather has a tremendous effect on the general process. Wear nitrile gloves to prevent cutting yourself on the barrel with the sights removed as it will fillet your hand if you polished it properly. Make sure you have plenty of hand towels to dry the barrel and one for freshwater wipe down between applications. Your first application will have you worried as it works very fast within 1 minute. Do a test run for a baseline at 1 minute, and it's a fair amount of time as it will be covered up after each following application. I used 3,000 grit wet sandpaper instead of steel wool, and it came out perfect. When you start to see the colors of a bad bluing show up, just stop and thoroughly rinse your barrel while buffing the blue with wet sandpaper immediately. Without a proper rinse, the bluing will remain and work at an unnoticeable level and destroy your work. So, it's best to use your nitrile gloves' surface and assist the rinse. That's the most critical part of the process and pay close attention as it works fast. Applying the following coats to a wet barrel will help control the changes taking place. Use anything to apply it, but make certain you're wiping in one direction as to not leave behind any fiber from your paper towel, swab, etc. It takes about 5 to 8 coats to even out any fading and really strengthen the level of penetration that the bluing will induce. I stopped after I achieved a relatively blackened graphite coloration, and it is running the entirety of the barrel. Much darker than many rifles come from the factory. It beats my Browning 10/.22 bluing, and it's in pristine condition. Good luck and safe hunting! RS

Birchwood Casey makes the best cold bluing. It's even better than the regular Birchwood Casey Bluing. If you follow the instructions, this chemical works with one use. I highly recommend it.

The Birchwood Casey Super Blue works very well if you follow the directions carefully. Several applications are required to get the result you want. Careful cleanings are required for each application. This is not a professional hot-bluing process. If you want those results, go to someone who does that for a living. If you have an old shooter that you want to protect and beautify, this will work just fine. If you have a valuable collector's piece, do not use this; in fact, don't use anything on it but some oil and renaissance wax. Again....read the directions and follow them. If you skimp there, you wasted your time and money.

I was looking for a bluing product for a 30-year-old Ruger 10/.22 that had seen better days. I spent one week redeeming the barrel of its scrapes, nicks, and deep scarring with a file. Next, I removed the paint that some fool felt so compelled to apply to such a nice shooting rifle. Then I filed down the light pitting that the paint had covered. The barrel was then wet sanded up to 3000 grit and then finished with metal polishing compound. It looked like a bright chrome, but it couldn't withstand 6 hours unprotected as it flashed overnight. The atmosphere was a chilly 50°F, the humidity was about 80% relative, and a rainy day in February of 2011. The ambient weather has a tremendous effect on the general process. Wear nitrile gloves to prevent cutting yourself on the barrel with the sights removed as it will fillet your hand if you polished it properly. Make sure you have lots of hand towels to dry the barrel and one for freshwater wipe down between applications. Your first application will have you worried as it works very fast within 1 minute. Do a test run for a baseline at 1 minute; it's a fair amount of time as it will be covered up after each following application. I used 3,000 grit wet sandpaper instead of steel wool, and it came out perfect. When you start to see the colors of a lousy bluing show up, stop, and thoroughly rinse your barrel while buffing the blue with wet sandpaper immediately. Without a proper rinse, the bluing will remain and work at an unnoticeable level and destroy your work. So, it's best to use your nitrile gloves' surface and assist the rinse. That's the most important part of the process and pay close attention as it works fast. Applying the subsequent coats to a wet barrel will help control the changes taking place. Use anything to apply it, but make sure you're wiping in one direction as to not leave behind any fiber from your paper towel, swab, etc. It takes about 5 to 8 coats to even out any fading and strengthens the level of penetration that the bluing will induce. I stopped after I achieved a relatively blackened graphite coloration and it is running the entirety of the barrel. Much darker than many rifles come from the factory. It beats my Browning 10/.22 bluing, and it's in pristine condition.

The bluing products did not provide anything near to what I expected. Tried it on two firearms now neither turned much darker than bare metal finish after several applications.

I'm a couple of hatchets and axes to put grips in, and the concept of painting them did not appeal to me personally. So I figured I had blue them. Well, the blueing holds up just fine thanks you. Gives the heads a great antique look. They are all holding up outside, so the protection is there. I enjoy the item. The reason behind four stars is because I couldn't get the profound even finish I was anticipating to get. Remember that these are the axes that I was blue then the metal is different than that on firearms. Nevertheless, I expected to be in a position to even things out and get a deeper coloration than that I got. I am pretty sure that it was either me or the material because this stuff wasn't designed for ax heads for crying out loud. I figured because it is metal I ought to be capable of getting better results than I got. The application of this is simple, but you do invest a good deal of time over the sink and waiting for things to dry, some buffing and reapplication to get a darker color. Not bad and not difficult takes a little time. Can I use this material again on ax heads? YES. The look is beautiful, and it holds up well to what precisely an ax does. Therefore for my purposes, this gets A for purpose and toughness. It gets B for ease of use. It gets a C+ for looks and appeal. That is a solid 4-star item in my book, and since it consumes to ax heads, I think that it will kick butt on a firearm.